Intensity: 60-80% max hang

Sets: 4-6

Reps: 6 hangs per set

Work: 7 seconds

Rest: 3 seconds between hangs

Rest between sets: 3 minutes

Hold: 20mm edge, half-crimp

Intensity: 90-100% max effort

Sets: 4-6

Reps: 1 hang per set

Work: 10 seconds

Rest between sets: 3-5 minutes

Hold: 10-15mm edge, open-hand

Exercise: Weighted pull-ups with 3-second hold at 90°

Sets: 4

Reps: 3-5

Rest: 3 minutes between sets

Progression: Add weight when you can do 5 reps with good form

Exercises:

• Front lever progressions (3 sets of 8-12s)
• Hanging windshield wipers (3 sets of 6-8 per side)
• Weighted planks (3 sets of 30-45s)

Rest: 1 minute between exercises

Format: 4 boulders back-to-back, 4 sets

Intensity: V2-V4 below max grade

Rest between boulders: 10 seconds

Rest between sets: 4 minutes

Focus: Smooth movement, controlled breathing

Duration: 20-30 minutes continuous climbing

Intensity: Easy enough to maintain for duration

Focus: Perfect foot placement, silent climbing

Terrain: Vertical to slightly overhanging

Exercises:

• 90/90 hip stretches (2x30s per side)
• Piriformis stretches (2x30s per side)
• Deep squat holds (3x30s)
• Hip CARs (controlled articular rotations) (10 per side)

Frequency: Daily or before climbing sessions

Exercises:

• Rubber band extensions (3x20 reps)
• Rice bucket work (5 minutes)
• Finger rolls with light weight (3x12)

Frequency: 3-4x/week after climbing

Exercises:

• Band pull-aparts (3x15)
• External rotations (3x12 per arm)
• Scapular pull-ups (3x8)

Frequency: 2-3x/week